Septic System Inspection How to Test & Inspect Septic Systems for Signs of Failure
Septic System Inspection Acomplete guide to septic system inspection & testing: this article series answers just about any question you might have about buying or owning a house with a septic system. In articles listed here we explain in complete detail how to buy, inspect, test, diagnose maintain and repair septic tanks and all other components of septic systems.
We give in-depth information about conventional septic tanks, drain fields, septic pipes, and septic waste handling.
This page organizes and links to our detailed septic system inspection, test, repair, and design articles, including our online septic systems book. Septic testing class presentations, photos, sketches, tables, links to products and consultants are provided. [Above photograph shows an open access to a steel septic tank.]
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Editor/Publisher - See WHO ARE WE?
Inspecting a home or commercial septic system means finding evidence that the onsite wastewater disposal and treatment system is working properly.
The procedures used must cope with the difficulty that a septic system consists of buried components, involves major costs to replace, and may involve serious health and life safety risks as well. The major steps in septic system inspection and diagnosis are discussed below in narrative form.
Watch out : death by leaning over, falling-into or deliberately entering a septic tank is more common than many people realize.
Do not fail to observe and keep people away from septic tanks, cesspools, drywells, or other site features that are not protected by a safe, secure, cover of adequate strength.
This article provides a complete overview of septic system inspection & testing & common failures. At the end of this article we provide links to in-depth septic system design, inspection, testing & repair articles.
Home buyers of a property with a septic tank should be sure to read HOME BUYERS GUIDE to SEPTIC SYSTEMS - What to Do, Step by Step.
Septic system inspection procedures, defects in onsite waste disposal systems, septic tank problems, septic drainfield problems, checklists of system components and things to ask. Septic system maintenance and pumping schedules .
A "septic system," also referred to as a private, on-site waste disposal system, receives waste water and solids from a Building's plumbing facilities (bathrooms, kitchens, shower, laundry), treats, and then disposes of the effluent from this waste, by permitting it to absorb into soils at the property.
"Treatment" is accomplished by bacterial action in the "septic" or "treatment" tank and it is mostly accomplished by bacteria in the soil around and below the effluent absorption system, or "drain field."
This bacterial action is needed to reduce the level of pathogens in the effluent discharges from the waste system into the soil.
The principal components of a private on-site waste disposal system usually include the following:
Many variations on this general scheme are used, depending on local climate, soil conditions, available space, economy, and available materials. Special equipment and systems may be designed for problem or difficult sites such as rocky or wet ground, permafrost, or wet tropical marshlands.
Readers who are unfamiliar with what a private septic system is and the types of systems installed should review articles and sketches of septic system components found
Types of treatment tanks, adsorption systems, pumps, and other special equipment are discussed in some further detail in this text, and are listed in the septic system inspection checklist data. For a more detailed introduction you may want to read our Lockwood
article SEPTIC TANK & SYSTEM CARE BASICS and then return here to continue by using your browser's "BACK" button.
Providing inspection and diagnosis of on-site waste disposal systems is an extremely valuable public service which helps protect people from expensive unanticipated septic system repair costs and helps protect public health by assuring sanitary disposal of sewage and gray water waste from buildings.
More importantly though, such inspections may detect and warn about serious safety hazards at some properties.
The strong warnings issued below intend to reduce septic system safety hazards for inspectors and property owners/occupants, but it is not the author's intention to dissuade inspectors from providing this valuable service.
Watch out : Danger lurks at cesspools, open covers, tanks or tank covers in poor condition, and from high levels of methane gas. These risk collapse, falling, asphyxiation, and other potentially fatal hazards as well as risks of unsanitary conditions.
Septic and Cesspool Inspection Safety : Watch out: for these life-safety hazards around septic tanks.
a loose, light, insecure, weak, or missing cover at a septic tank invites a fatal accident as a child or adult can easily fall into a septic tank, cesspool, or drywell that is not adquately protected. Entering a septic tank for repair without proper training, equipment, confined space procedures, a monitor, and a rescue plan is usually fatal.
Septic system inspectors face personal risks of health and safety including possible fatal system collapse or asphyxiation. Old steel tanks, thin, rusting steel or rotting home-made wood tank covers, site-built tanks and cesspools, and recently-pumped cesspools are at particular risk of collapse.
Falling into a septic tank or cesspool is likely to lead to rapid asphyxiation from methane and in cases of collapse, there is risk of becoming buried.
The author has consulted in cases involving such fatalities (homeowner fell into a site-built cesspool), and at one site inspection, walking near an overgrown area the author himself stepped through a rusting steel septic tank top, surviving only by throwing himself into a nearby clump of brambles!
No person, except those licensed, equipped, and trained, should ever enter a septic tank.
or the Building: Improper septic testing procedures, such as flooding a dosing-system, can damage the system.
Septic system concerns for a Building owner start with safety. Here are some red flags :
include depressions or "soil subsidence" anywhere on or around the property. Any suspect area should be roped-off and absolutely no one should walk over or even close to such a spot until it has been investigated by a professional.
such as site-built cesspools or drywells were often made with a thin steel or wood cover which with age can collapse.
If the history of the site or visual observation suggests that there are or were old systems at the property, professional investigation is warranted. Improper "abandonment" (failing to fill-in a pit) can lead to sudden collapses.
Signs that there may be old systems at a property might come from anecdotal evidence (ask a neighbor, ask the local septic installing or service companies), or visual evidence such as seeing abandoned waste pipes at basement or crawl space walls or floors.
or malfunction .Homeowners should review the SAFETY WARNINGS listed above.
Requirements, including licensing and education requirements for septic system inspectors or test personnel vary among states & provinces. Here we list examples of qualifications for septic inspectors.
If you perform septic inspections you are obligated to do so with proper information, training, procedures, and in some communities a license is required. Some states (e.g. CA, CT, NJ, MA) have specific certification requirements for inspectors of septic systems, as well as specific regulations regarding the performance of the inspection itself. Be sure to obtain information pertinent to your own state, usually from the state health department or state department of environmental protection.
For example, Massachusetts septic inspectors will want to look at the links and the Title 5 regulations at our page on the Massachusetts Septic TESTING LAW
Other links to septic system installation and inspection regulatory agencies are at our "Local, State, U.S. Federal Government, & International AGENCIES & Resources for Septic Systems Wastewater Treatment" page.
Watch out : too often we hear from readers that their "septic inspector" was a septic tank pumping company who did nothing but pump the septic tank, or that their inspector simply looked around the site and gave a generic septic inspection report that did not provide the information recommended in the article above.
Regarding the photo above, we have seen effluent breakout in the yard soon after new owners occupied the home. Some careful gentle excavating explored the problem to confirm that the breakout was in the drainfield, not at a collapsing septic tank.
This article explains detailed "how to" steps instructing the investigator in how to inspect specific septic components for signs of failure. The following section will discuss types and causes of septic failure and will provide criteria that define "failure."
Before digging up your septic tank or calling a septic pumper, if you think the septic system is failed because of drain blockage or drains backing up into the building, you should
see CLOGGED DRAIN DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR Is it a blocked drain or the septic system? - A First Step for Homeowners".
If you link to that text, please return here using your browser's "BACK" button.
Outside waste piping conducts sewage (black water and gray water) from the Building to the treatment tank or "septic tank," and from the treatment tank to the distribution box. These lines should be of solid, non-perforated material and need to be protected from mechanical damage (such as by vehicles).
Piping extending from the distribution box into drain fields is normally perforated, though solid lines might be used if effluent is being processed by more specialized devices such as seepage pits, galleys, or a sand-bed system.
This line may become blocked by waste, damaged by collapse of a section, or invaded by roots. Detection of these conditions is fairly easy by routing a snake or power snake from the Building drain to the septic tank.
An experienced power snake operator can often tell by "feel" that a drain line is collapsed, partially collapsed, or invaded by roots. While you may make a temporary "repair" of such a condition by drain-cleaning, if the line is broken or root-invaded, you should expect to have to excavate and replace it soon.
The septic tank and cleanout access covers are easy to spot next to this home in northern Maine.
Because this property is located close to the seashore, extra care to review clearance distances as well as condition of the septic system are in order.
The same failures can occur on this line as from house to tank. But the distribution box may be more difficult to find.
By viewing the entire site to locate the drainfield or soakaway bed it is often possible to make a good guess at the D-box location between the septic tank and drainfield.
In a conventional "drain field" of perforated pipes buried in gravel-filled trenches, a drain line may be invaded by tree roots. This is why experts advise keeping tree and shrub plantings away from drain fields. Vehicle traffic can also collapse this or any outdoor waste piping, which is why experts advise against ever driving over a drainfield or over any other septic system components.
Also see SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LOCATION: how to find the septic drain field or leaching bed.
For detailed guides to inspecting different types of septic tanks
Below we summarize this step.
The purpose of the treatment tank or "septic tank" is to contain solid waste and to permit the beginning of bacterial action to process sewage into a combination of clarified effluent, settled sludge, or floating scum in the tank.
An intact, un-damaged septic tank is normally always filled with these materials.
Only by pumping and visual inspection can actual tank capacity and condition be completely determined. Probing in the area of a tank, without excavation, is not recommended as the probe may damage a steel or fiberglass tank.
Steel septic tanks typically last 20-25 years, then rust, and collapse. Before this time steel baffles may rust off (damaging the drain field with sludge) or the tank top may become rusty and unsafe.
Since steel tank tops can be replaced while leaving the old tank in place, the condition of the top itself is not a reliable indicator of tank condition.
See STEEL SEPTIC TANKS for details about steel septic tanks.
In our photo we see a round steel septic tank cover - really too close to the building, but easy to find. The waste line between this building and the septic tank will be short but may be hard to access if it's accessible only through the crawl space.
Concrete tanks at an existing septic installation are usually viable, but might have damaged baffles or cracks that permit seepage of groundwater in or septic effluent out around the tank. Occasionally we've seen tanks made of poor-quality concrete (insufficient portland cement) which eroded badly.
If the tank outlet or absorption system have been blocked, examination of the tank interior may show that effluent is or has been above the top of the baffles (see "baffles" below) thus indicating a system failure discussed next.
See CONCRETE SEPTIC TANKS for details about concrete septic tanks.
Baffles in a septic tank are provided to keep solids and floating scum and grease inside the tank. Baffles are provided at both the inlet to the tank (from the Building) and the outlet from the tank (to the absorption system).
Broken baffles or high sludge levels can cause solids to flow out of the tank and into the absorption system. The result is reduced absorption into surrounding soil and eventual failure of the system.
Floating scum thickness and settled solids thickness can be measured through access ports into the tank or cesspool. Finding solids at or covering the outlets or damaged baffles should result in report of a very questionable adsorption system and possible major repair cost.
If baffles are lost or damaged (rusted off on a steel tank or broken off on a concrete tank), they can be repaired or replaced. For example at a steel tank the contractor may simply insert a plastic piping "Tee" into the tank inlet or outlet to create a new baffle system.
However, depending on how long the tank was used without good baffles, the volume of solids and grease that moved from the tank to the absorption system will have begun clogging soils there and will have reduced the future life expectancy of the absorption system.
Baffle damage and repair, or even a complete tank replacement when the absorption system has been left alone always lead the author to warn the Building owner that the future life of the absorption system may be in doubt and that additional expense will be involved.
Solids entering a septic tank are intended to remain there until pumped out during tank service. A large portion of solids settle to the bottom of the tank as sludge.
Grease and floating scum
remain at the top of the sewage in the tank. Baffles (discussed above) help keep solids, scum, and grease in the tank. Bacterial action in the tank make a modest reduction in the solids volume and begin the processing of sewage pathogens, a step later completed by soil bacteria in the absorption fields.
Net free area in the septic tank :
If the sludge level becomes too high or the floating scum layer too thick, in addition to risking passage of solids out of the tank (damaging the absorption system), the remaining "net free area" of liquid in the tank is reduced.
When the net free area becomes too small, there is insufficient time for waste entering the tank to settle out as bottom sludge or top floating scum.
That is, for an in-use septic tank with a small net free area, the frequent entry of solid and liquid waste will keep the tank debris agitated, thus forcing floating debris into the absorption system where the life of that component will be reduced (due to soil clogging).
The importance of keeping an adequate net free area in a septic tank is the reason that tanks need to be pumped at regular intervals. Building owners who never pump a tank until it is clogged have already damaged the absorption system.
See the Massachusetts Title 5 Septic Inspection procedure discussed below for details about determining the level of floating and settled scum and sludge in the tank.
The distribution box (more than one may be in use) connects a single effluent line from the septic tank to a network of absorption system components such as drainfield leach lines or to a network of seepage pits or galleys.
In good system design the outlet openings from the distribution box to each drainfield line can be adjusted to regulate the flow among the various absorption lines.
If a distribution box becomes tipped (or clogged) effluent may be routed to only a portion of the absorption system, thus overloading it and leading to a "breakout" of effluent at the surface or to clogging and system backup.
An examination of the box interior may show flood lines in the box if the drain field has been clogged or saturated in the past even if at the time of inspection the box is not flooded. If the fields have been flooded you should be pessimistic about the remaining life of the absorption system.
If the distribution box or D-box is tipped and/or effluent has not been uniformly distributed among the drainfield lines (assuming they are of equal length and in equally good soils), only a simple adjustment of the outflow may be needed. Round plugs with eccentric openings may be present or can be inserted in the D-box outlet openings to regulate flow among the individual absorption lines.
The absorption system or "drain field" has two jobs. First, it disposes of liquid effluent by permitting it to seep into the soil below. Second, a "bio-mat" of bacteria which forms in the soil below the drainage field processes pathogens in the septic effluent to make the effluent sufficiently sanitary as to avoid contaminating nearby ground water.
This distinction between successful "disposal" and successful "treatment" is important to avoid groundwater contamination but has not been addressed by regulation in every municipality.
Municipalities which require a minimum distance between the bottom of the drain field trenches (or equivalent component) and the top of the seasonal high ground water table have recognized the importance of a working bio-mat and the need to provide adequate dry soil for it to function.
Even in a well-designed drainage field, eventually the soil surrounding the drainfield device (perforated pipe in gravel trench or other seepage system) becomes clogged with grease and debris.
Examining an excavated cross-section of a failed drainfield will often display a black or gray band of sludge and grease of about 1" thickness at the inside perimeter of the gravel trench.
When this layer of soil becomes sufficiently clogged the passage of effluent into the soil below is slowed and eventually blocked, leading to the need for replacement. Keeping a tank pumped so as to reduce the passage of debris and grease into a drain field will extend its life.
This is the most expensive problem to correct. Look for septic effluent seepage to ground surface in area of equipment or downhill from such equipment.
Look for (illegal) drain field line extensions to nearby streams, storm drains, or adjoining properties where the temptation to "fix" a failing system by sending the effluent to an improper destination overwhelmed a previous owner or repair company. In some areas inspectors use septic loading and dye test. Seepage may be due to overloaded tank, failed absorption system, or blocked/broken piping (may be less costly).
An excavator or septic contractor will often explore one or more drain lines (or similar components) by excavating a portion of it to look for evidence of flooding or soil clogging. We've used a simple probe at the end and along a leach bed to check for flooding of that component. (Be careful not to break or collapse old piping.)
This article explains types of septic system failure lists causes of each type of septic component failure , and lists the septic component failure criteria or in other words what conditions are defined as "failure"?. The detailed "how to" steps instructing how to inspect specific septic components for signs of failure are discussed in the text above.
In simplest terms, there are two visible disposal failures :
Septic odors may also indicate a system failure or an imminent failure. But such odors may also be produced by defects in the plumbing vent system or other site conditions. Beware, sewer gas contains methane and is explosive if it reaches a dangerous concentration inside a Building.
Typical causes range from things that are easy and cheap to repair, to a need for complete system replacement:
However there can also be treatment failures . Effluent may not back up or appear on the surface, but if insufficiently treated effluent reaches a private well or any stream or waterway, the environment is being contaminated -- an unacceptable condition. Historically many people have just worried about disposal.
As the quality of drinking water deteriorates in many areas and as population grows in many previously thinly-populated areas, proper treatment has become the real concern for everyone's health.
For example, if there is not sufficient soil between the bottom of the soil absorption system trenches and the local groundwater, the local environment is being contaminated.
Other causes of onsite wastewater disposal system failure:
I have reports of children and adults who have died from this hazard, as recently as December 1997. In 2000 I consulted in a fatality involving an adult falling into a cesspool. At a Building inspection I myself stepped through a hidden, rusted-through steel septic tank cover.
Massachusetts Title 5 lists specific failure criteria and serves as a good model for septic inspections anywhere.
See these detailed articles describing
- Visual + Dye test and system loading. Warning: using an inadequate amount of tracer dye or an insufficient volume of water for this test will make it meaningless.
The minimum quantities of water and septic dye needed are discussed in a separate chapter at SEPTIC DYE TEST PROCEDURE - a chapter of this text "Inspecting, Testing, & Maintaining Residential Septic Systems".
ADDITIONAL LEVELS OF INSPECTION for real estate transactions and for problem diagnosis and bidding prior to actual repair work.
In specifying the size and type of absorption field (leach field, seepage pits, galleys, other) a septic engineer or health department official will require that a soil percolation test or "perc" test be performed.
You may hear it described as a "deep hole test." The first time I participated in this procedure I found myself smiling with surprise at how low-tech the procedure actually was (in New York State.)
After identifying the most-likely location on the lot for placement of a septic drainfield, the excavator used a backhoe to dig a rough hole about 5 ft. deep. Happily no groundwater immediately filled in the hole (which would have been bad news). Perhaps this is why builders try to have this test done in July which is the period of most-dry weather and lowest groundwater table levels.
After digging this rough hole, the septic engineer poured a 5-gallon (joint compound) bucket of water into the hole. In some cases a few buckets might be dumped therein.
After that sophisticated move, the observers simply watched the rate at which the water disappeared. a one-inch drop in water level in this hole in three minutes was considered very good. If the water was found still in the hole at no drop in level the next morning, this was considered seriously bad and probably requiring some soil exchange or other special design measures.
I like the Massachusetts Title 5 Septic Inspection criteria for defining a (at least possibly) functional drainfield, as the text explains the role of the biomass below the absorption bed, sets soil depth requirements, and recognizes the importance of keeping the bottom of the working biomass area in well drained soil sufficiently above the seasonal high water table.
Here is an example of soil requirements for a functional drainfield. This version is particularly clearly written and is for residents of Ohio but the principles apply anywhere.
"In Ohio, soil absorption systems can be used in areas where the percolation rate of the soil is between 3 and 60 minutes per inch (soil permeability between 1 and 20 inches per hour).
At least 4 feet of suitable soil is required under the soil absorption system to provide adequate treatment of the septic tank effluent.
To accommodate the construction of the system and provide adequate soil cover to grade, a minimum of 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 feet of suitable soil is needed above the limiting layer.
A limiting layer may be bedrock, an impervious soil layer (hardpan, fragipan) or a seasonally high water table (gray soil or mottles).
The soil absorption system must be at least 8 feet from any drain line on the lot, 50 feet from a water supply, and 10 feet from the property line, right-of-ways and the house. Septic systems cannot be placed on the flood plain and are limited to areas with less than a 15 percent slope." http://ohioline.osu.edu/aex-fact/0743.html Ohio State University Fact Sheet "Septic Tank - Soil Absorption Systems"
The size of the absorption field needed (in square feet of area, presumably also unencumbered by trees, driveways, buildings, etc.) can range considerably depending on the soil percolation rate.
A lot with a good percolation rate or "perc" of perhaps one inch of percolation in three minutes might require about 4500 square feet for a typical three bedroom home. If the same home were built where there was a poor a soil percolation rate of an hour per inch, 9000 square feet or more might be required for the absorption area.
Drainfield size and location also have to take into account local zoning - setback requirements from property borders, setbacks from streams, wetlands, wells, water supply lines, and other encumbrances.
In the most common design of drainfield, perforated pipes are buried in gravel-filled trenches to form the drainfield. Pipes are placed across the slope line of sloped property (so that all of the effluent doesn't simply rush down to and leak out at the end of the drain line pipe). While some experts describe the bottom of these trenches as "level" in practice they are dug to slope slightly, perhaps 1/8" per foot or less.
A typical trench for a septic drainfield is 18 to 30 inches in depth, and 8 to 12 inches wide. The trenches are dug about 6 feet apart which allows, in good design, space for a set of replacement trenches to be placed between the original ones when the first set fails.
The maximum length of a trench is typically about 150 feet but I've found installations that were three times that length.
Where lot space does not permit drainfield trenches such as I've just described, a septic engineer may specify that seepage pits or galleys are to be installed.
These fit in a smaller space since a single pit may be 6' to 8' in diameter.
But the depth to which effluent is being delivered (4' or more) means that the sewage effluent is unlikely to be fully treated by a biomass. These systems may successfully "dispose" of effluent but they are probably not adequately "treating" it.
It's easy to ruin or shorten the life of a drainfield:
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2019-09-14 - by (mod) -
Discuss your concerns with home inspectors in your area; listen for someone who's experienced, thorough, detailed, answers questions, writes a detailed, photo-illustrated, factual report of findings and observations. You might start at the page-top EXPERTS DIRECTORY
On 2019-09-14 by tim.cassidy@sympatico.ca
Looking for a way to testing a house environment inside that possibly has a Venting leek and or damages unreported by builders and or malicious conduct caused by deliberate contractors for possible vent cuts and or drilled holes allowing septic odors in a house environment. I remember hearing reading something about a compressed black smoke that can be injected at in the septic drain port into the house and use UV lite to detect inside a house to find and terminate these possible leak points. End result causing long term health issues. Last pump on a new system only 2yr in use was all checked tok. simple puzzled I am in question need. Thank you
On 2015-04-21 - by (mod) -
In my OPINION the list you offer is fine but incomplete if it permits a property owner to think that after that inspection they can be sure that their septic system is working properly: I don't see any indication of
- a site inspection for effluent breakout
- a building inspection and interview about septic backup history
- any review of the system maintenance record
- all of the in-tank inspection points that we listed in our tank inspection details are missing: tank levels, baffle condition, indication of backflow into the tank during pumpdown
I don't know the purpose of your list but as a condition of septic system inspection it is a good start but in total is not reliable.
You might want to take a look at
On 2015-04-20 by Samantha
If doing up a Septic Tank Inspection checklist for a Red Seal Plumber is the following sufficient?
· Perform an effluent quality inspection visually and an odour examination.
· Remove and clean effluent filter.
· Clean or replace air filters in the lift station or compressor.
· Test run sewage pumps and floats and perform a load test on all pumps.
· Determine if the tanks or other components require pumping.
· Visually inspect the drain field or pressure bed.
· Check alarm and panel function, and read history from data logger if equipped.
· Run water through distribution box
· Camera Tank
Have I missed anything?
On 2014-07-06 - by (mod) -
Interesting question for which the answer is "it depends" (as Mark Cramer says).
It's normal for wastewater to flow first to the low end of each drainfield line.
So if you are inspecting right after water has entered the drainfield from the septic tank one would expect to see water therein.
But if you see water there when no water is entering the septic tank (thus none flowing out) and when none has entered for several hours, then either the field is failing or the field is flooded with water from another source (surface runoff, groundwater).
Because leach lines clog and fail from the low end first, that does not mean that the entire field is at end of life or in failure. Further inspection at other points along the lines and including in the D-box and in the tank could help diagnose the field condition.
On 2014-07-06 by Chris
When inspecting a a drain field, what is the ruling on "seeing" water inside the 4" perforated vents located in each corner of the field. Is it ok to see water or are they required to be completely dry? If it is ok to "see" water, at what level below the surface is the accepted level. I live in NJ and want to determine if I need to have my drain field replaced or if I am ok??
On 2014-05-15 - by (mod) -
I agree that a running toilet can flood the drainfield as can rainfall, particularly when surface runoff is directed onto the drainfield area or when the drainfield or soakaway bed is built with it bottom too close to the seasonal high groundwater level.
And I agree that backflow into the septic tank from the drainfield (leachfield for some readers) indicated flooded fields. Replacing the fields may be unavoidable but IF a careful inspection of the drainfield (perhaps a sample excavation into the center or high end of the worst trench) showed that the field was not clogged with biomat, I'd be tempted to fix running toilets and surface runoff (site grading corrections [don't drive over the fields with heavy equipment]) before replacing the whole soakaway system.
And I'm impressed Karen that you've already tackled this problem at the running toilet end. A toilet fill valve ought not be so flimsy that a slammed toilet lid would make it flush or leak. But I agree that there is a stunning array of toilet fill and flush valve options on the market, some of which *guarantee* that the toilet will never run. I'd look a bit further for a better product. NuFlush claims to have such a product; we've not evaluated it.
On 2014-05-14 by Karen
Hi, I have a septic system that presents problems only when we have a large amount of rain with the combination of a running toilet. We have replaced all of our toilet parts but my kids keep slamming the handles down and cause the toilet to run. After about an hr of running toilet, depending on which toilet runs, either the basement toilet will overflow or the basement shower will fill up. We had the tank pumped and the drainfield snaked. No issues where found with the snaking. After pumping it was stated that there was backflow and the field would need replacing, but the ground was completely saturated (everywhere in our area- septic or not) due to heavy snow melting and then heavy rain.
Several yrs ago the same septic company came out bc we had some pooling at the end of the yard and they determined that the distribution box was cracked in half. They removed it and tied into a drain field that was not being used and did not replace the box.
My question is- could this just be an oversaturation problem or does it sound like the system does need replacing. I am not against replacing it—it is just we have limited space and I want to replace it when it needs it so that we get the full use of our current system. There are no odors or pools of water in the yard and the ground is very dry unless we have a heavy rain.
On 2014-04-08 - by (mod) -
Vickie, I don't know what box you're talking about for sure but if you mean the Distribution box, sewage in the D-box is a sure indicator that sewage has been leaving the septic tank and flowing into (and shortening the remaining life of the drainfield).
I would not undertake a repair at the Distribution box itself (unless it's tipped and needs adjustment for that reason). Doing so may be opening a very costly and unnecessary can of worms, or could smack of a cover-up that not only could be troublesome but could itself scare off a buyer.
Check that the outlet baffle at the septic tank is in place and have the septic tank cleaned and inspected (but NOT right before a septic inspection or test - that'd be fraudulent). Then let's wait to see what your buyer cares about rather than just tossing money into the ground prematurely.
On 2014-04-08 by Vickie
Our septic pumps great from house to tank never backed up nothing on the lawn there s some sludge in box can this be repaired to come up to code to seller my home?
Continue reading at ABANDONED or NEW SEPTIC SYSTEM TESTS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION & TEST GUIDE FAQs - questions & answers posted originally at this page.
SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION & TEST GUIDE at Inspect A pedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
Share this articleOr use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia
Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.
Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
Our Comment Box is provided by Countable Web Productions countable.ca
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes and to use illustrations from The ILLUSTRATED HOME .
